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Bikeboy's XR10 build

bikeboy

Pebble Pounder
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
119
Location
vienna
1.jpg


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Ok here it goes, first build for me.

Specs on stuff that i currently have:
Axial XR10 kit
Viper chasis
Futaba 4PKS
Sedona and rover tires
Tekin FXR esc (2)
CC BEC
(2) Tekin 35T combo with fxr esc
vaquish product incision chubs, incision steering knuckles, incision lockout
Batteries: MaxAmps
CO battery mount front and rear
CO Ti steering links - bent version
Wheels: Vanquish ProComp 2 for front and SLW V4 for rear 1.0
giving the rc4wd gearbox - planning to upgrade the gear later - so if it doesn't work out i can switch that out too
axial shock cap upgrade and shock collar change to Big Bore now
Crawler Innovation low front links and high clearance rear link
UGC Viper chasis

Bikeboy
 
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The normal 10A CC BEC is plenty good enough. Normal FXR's are plenty good, and a bit smaller. I love Br00d motors, period. Wouldn't buy anything else.
 
Yes I ended getting the fxr esc and tekin 35t combo but waiting for Holmes Crawler Master to be release - got the ugc viper - guess i need to update my list huh
 
Yeah shopping for all those stuff takes time, lots of stuff sold out and have to wait to order them - ahem vanquish wheels ;-)
 
add photos

Just got some part build and adding photos - used rc4wd gear box - more photos to come of vp product
 
Finally complete the build. Part one.
Going to run this for awhile while i wait for the vp front and rear link mount and reolace the gear to rc4wd gear
but for now this baby need some run time and mud and rock dust on it

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2.jpg


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5.jpg
 
Shortening the front uppers will drop the motor down and bring your servo back up out of harms way.
 
hey guys thanks for the advice
ok i have some close up for you to look at
as for shortening the front upper (Black) (Link B) is this what your talking about? or the red alum. axial upper (link A)

2-1.jpg


m5.jpg


m4.jpg


m3.jpg


m2.jpg


m1.jpg



thanks
 
They are saying to move links A in your pic. You might be able to simply move them back a few holes on your chassis and it should be fine. If not, then you will need to shorten them a bit. I had to do the same thing on mine and I was able to just move them back some holes on the chassis. Hope this helps.
 
x2 You have your chubs clocked back as far as they will go, but you need to shorten the upper links to rotate the entire axle back. What this does as well as helping clear the servo horn is to improve your breakover steering. I know some guys will notch out the slot on the chubs to clock them back even further (which I may find myself doing).

So, first thing would be to see if you can move the upper link mount on the chassis further back. Start there. If not, then you need to shorten the rod ends or the links altogether. "thumbsup" If that doesn't work, depending on your WB, you could lengthen the lowers too. Same effect, just depends on where your WB is sitting.
 
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