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Axial UMG10 fun truck

Downfall

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Apr 25, 2013
Messages
207
Location
San Diego
So, I have been tearing down and rebuilding trucks and trying my hand at body work, scratch builds, etc.

I want one truck that is mostly plug and play, nothing but fun.

Enter my new Unimog, UMG10 by Axial.

I will continue to upgrade and change things out, but this will stay mostly stock for a bit while I finish up other projects.

I used my after market Portal axles for this build, because, well, its a Mog. I also used my new bead lock wheels and tires because they fit the portals.

I need to buy a matching wheel and tire for spare.

I used a cheap roof rack as a body mount for accessories and added wheelwells upfront. The roof rack mounts between the roll cage bars. no modification was done or needed to cage.

I also modded (shortened) some Axial Scx10 II rock sliders to protect the body.

I also have a light kit laying around that I need to figure out. also will need a lightbar, etc.

I have been working on this last few days, which is why no updates on my other builds.

Specs:

ESC: Hobbywing Quicrun Crawler Brushed
Radio: FS-GT5
Servo: Annimos 20kg DS
Servo winch: Tiankongrc 25kg 360degree
Motor: RC4WD 45T crawler brushed
Battery: Zees 2s Lipo 5200mah
Axles: RZXYL Portal axles (cheap, wanted to try them)
Wheels: Mohero 1.9 aluminum beadlock
Tires: Injora Super Swampers 1.9
Shocks: stock aluminum shocks w/ 70w oil.

This was a kit build, mostly stock atm except for axles, wheels and tires.

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Very cool!! Love the portal axles and the color of the truck


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ok, wired up lights. headlights, foglights, brake, blinkers. still need to add reverse light.

and a look under hood of everything tucked away. I use computer cable protector cases to wrap light wires by frame to avoid snagging, touching anything hot, etc.

I used axial bucket lights and added lens for bottom mounted brake lights. the turn signals are built into rear frame cross member.

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I really like your start in on this. Seems like you’ve made a perfect series Of modifications. It appears utilitarian and properly endowed

No mention of power? RTR?

Shocks?
 
I really like your start in on this. Seems like you’ve made a perfect series Of modifications. It appears utilitarian and properly endowed

No mention of power? RTR?

Shocks?

Sorry, fixed my first post to reflect the answers to your questions.
 
Decided I did not like the square body look, and rear fenders got in way on some of the rocks so I removed them.

I cut them off and reversed them on inside of truck to act as fender wells and keep dirt out.

I put factory axles back on for now for scale. I will get another type of portals that are more scale and then use shorter shocks.
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sanded, cleaned up...but that can't be it, right?

I have an idea...
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ok, so I grabbed my old Axial Dingo cage and cut it up. The end result I feel is pretty cool.

anyways, I cut up cage and everything is bolted in, no glue. feels super solid, no wiggle.
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The cage is mounted through the dash and secured by a washer and screw. The cage ties into the Umg10 cage by 4 screws.

I used two screws that were double the length of the original Umg cage top outside screws. That was the metal screw is equally in length securing both halfs. You cab see original screw next to bars to verify I screwed it in to the correct length.

I counter sunk the two middle rear cage screws to try and make this look factory.

anyways, enjoy. more to come.

this thing is solid and legit for any roll overs. I like it like this.
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so, even before I added accessories or cut thecab, I was having problems with top heavy body swaying while driving, forget turning at speed.

I changed to 70w oil which helped, but did not fix problem. So, I took the internal shock springs I had removed from my Hilux leafspring project and added them to the front shock outside shafts.

works like a charm. stiffened front end up enough that the body does not roll or sag to the right when stopped.

in the second pick, you can see a spring within a spring.
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hmm, the frame is just to long for a small unimog.

do I cut it? rework rear cage so it can still clamshell open...

I think I must do it...
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the easy part is done, now I need to figure out modding the cage to meet rear frame brace.
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the rear cage is shortened and attached. still more work to do for the rear to be complete.

stay tuned.
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ok, more work done. I cut up and added the rear dingo cage tire carrier. It is screwed into rear UMG cage, but the white is drying putty to better blend the two parts together.

once dry, I will sand, rinse and repeat than paint until it blends. I will fill in the holes on dingo bars also later. just trying to get the look down right now.

I added a diamond platform in back to assist with climbing in back and also changing tires for driver. Moved some accessories around and will add more once I order some.

Anyways, here is todays update.
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so, I put the portal axles back on, not even running truck, the tires rubbed with mild articulation because I shortened rear.

gonna stick with these beefy portals, looks good now that the truck is shorter.

sanded putty on bars and added another layer to dry.

atm, trying to cut away as much body as possible to remove weight and get rid of the "boxy" look. To that end I thinned front fenders, cut them shorter in rear and removed the lower square step from cab so it has the classic round corners.

I also had to add a spacer and a bent rod end to the pan hard bar to clear the front pumpkin. Before it was limiting flex, now I get full articulation.
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Just incase someone had the same problem with panhard, here is pics of how I gained just enough room to miss pumpkin and have full flex. You can see metal spacer and bent/angled rod end.

Just enough room gained for full articulation with out effecting steering travel.

also, I moved rear brake lights to the rear cross member. And a few pics to see rear w/o spare.

I also moved shocks to bottom hole on axles to lower body just a tad.

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