-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
axial scx10 driveshaft problems
- Thread starter hntz4x4
- Start date
-
- Tags
- scx10 scx10 honcho
meatmonkey
I wanna be Dave
Your best bet for keeping the stock driveshafts attached is to use 3x5mm buttonhead bolts instead of the factory 3mm grub screws. I use part # HPIZ350. I like the HPI bolts because they tend to be either grade 10.9 or 12.9. They take a larger 1.5mm driver that you can really torque on. Since doing this I have yet to have a driveshaft fall off.
I even used red loc-tite, with two grub screws on each output, and I still couldn't keep them from falling off within a couple hours. It's kind of a design flaw, seeing as how the Wraith finally gets pins like Traxxas has been using for years.
I even used red loc-tite, with two grub screws on each output, and I still couldn't keep them from falling off within a couple hours. It's kind of a design flaw, seeing as how the Wraith finally gets pins like Traxxas has been using for years.
Just take a 3/32 drill and make a hole through the stub shaft. Install the M3 Traxxxas driveshaft pins and you will have no more problems. They are exactly the right length so no trimming required. It is a little difficult to get the hole just right, so take your time. I tried the button head screw for a while, but even it fails. The problem is a button head screw doesn't have a bite ring like a grub screw. Eventually it will spin. Oh yeah, upgrade to the metal yolks.
Wes
Wes
foproy
Quarry Creeper
mip drive shafts also work. i have never had them come off while driving.
meatmonkey
I wanna be Dave
I have the Junfac shafts in my AX-10 and think that they are alright. The setscrews that hold the pin in loosen on a regular basis, even with red loc-tite. I had to double layer heatshrink over the ends to hold the pins in. I think that they bind a little when under torque because instead of splines they have a D shaped section for the slip, which effects suspension action. Like the rig will get bound up and lift a tire, and then when I let off the throttle the rig settles down.
They don't work at as steep an angle as the stock U-joints. I tried to run them in my SCX, but because of my additional downtravel and castor angle they bound up way before full droop travel. I attribute this to my added downtravel, my castor angle, and the slightly shorter wheelbase of the SCX compared to my AX-10.
While they have served me well, and I've only broken one pin in two years of heavy abuse, if I had to do it again I'd probably just get MIP's and be done with it.
Does anyone have a measurement of the maximum operating angle of an MIP shaft compared to the stockers? Or compared to Maxx shafts?
They don't work at as steep an angle as the stock U-joints. I tried to run them in my SCX, but because of my additional downtravel and castor angle they bound up way before full droop travel. I attribute this to my added downtravel, my castor angle, and the slightly shorter wheelbase of the SCX compared to my AX-10.
While they have served me well, and I've only broken one pin in two years of heavy abuse, if I had to do it again I'd probably just get MIP's and be done with it.
Does anyone have a measurement of the maximum operating angle of an MIP shaft compared to the stockers? Or compared to Maxx shafts?
