Axial SCX10 Basic Upgrades

[Darcoop]

At 52 years of age I am a newbie to the RC world. I purchased a used SCX10 Rubicon Unlimited and just won a SCX10 Deadbolt at my first Crawl for a Cure at Bear Valley Lake Resort October, 2017. Since both chassis are the same. I would like to know what basic upgrades I should do to to improve durability/reliability. During my crawl I noticed the Rubicon needed more weight in the front to keep it from tipping over. I wedge a rock between the bumper and bull bar which help. I am assuming the Deadbolt will be the same. I know some relocate the battery to the front but, I think I just want to add more weight to the front. Anyhow would love some suggestions on upgrades/mods to both without getting too carried away and breaking the bank LOL.

 

[StomperCrawler]

WELCOME TO BANKRUPTCY!

Seriously though:

Servo with guts/gusto
BEC to power your new servo
Beadlock wheels to allow tire swaps
Holmes Brushed motor
Shock rebuild with X-rings, Teflon tape and green slime
Metal lower links
Tires that stick to whatever you crawl
Two-stage foams inside your tires
Check the links in my signature (sig) below for more info

 

[JeepSK8]

Swapping the battery to the front is super easy and a must do in my opinion. I bought my SCX10 used and it was mistreated, lol. But it came with Currie RockJok axles and a full vanquish suspension and steering upgrade. I trailed it with the battery in the rear and quickly realized that was a bad place for it. I mounted it horizontally in front of the motor / gearbox and moved the electronics to the back. It made a significant difference. I also pretty much replaced all the wiring, it was a mess.

 

[StomperCrawler]

I'm also interested in this topic. Anymore ideas?

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-scx-10/259328-tips-tricks-thread.html

 

[Col_Sanders]

Moving the battery to the front can be done with the spare parts included with the Deadbolt so you wont be out any money, just a few minutes of your time. Run them as is for a bit to get a feel for them, but pretty soon you will want to upgrade the links (including the steering links). You can buy them premade or make your own pretty easy and cheap. There are threads here on how to do it. I personally would not recommend Axial's aluminum links, as the rod ends are junk and you can get much better for roughly the same price.

Next you should upgrade the transmission gears, or at least the idler gear. There are a variety of them available from Hot Racing, Robinson Racing, etc. The idler is what normally breaks, but getting the whole gearset isn't much more expensive.

Eventually you will probably want better steering, tires, more power, armor, a different body, etc. Welcome to the sickness!

 

[StomperCrawler]

Upgrade the trans gears, my best vote will be these [emoji38]https://www.amainhobbies.com/incision-steel-transmission-gear-set-incirc00190/p710208


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

What about these: more steel gears for half the price and no shipping (several sellers but here's one):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/132352265813

 

[lonleycreeper]

Agreed with most off the comments on here.

Battery up front, is a must do. I recomend behind the front shock towers, or if using smaller batteries, on the sliders.

Everything works pretty good otherwise. Only thing I have broken on a stock rig is thee plastic C hubs. Cold, plastic, and a hard impact don't mix, lol.

As far as upgrades, drive the trucks, watch the truck, the upgrades you want will soon be obvious. This doesn't have to be a money pit.

 

[Teng]

What about these: more steel gears for half the price and no shipping (several sellers but here's one):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/132352265813

Should be fine, but it all depends your motor power and battery. If you are in 3s brushless with high ratio pinion and spur. Maybe these metal gears won’t last too long. Even more parts failed, if you did not shim them properly. Cheers [emoji4]


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk