Any tips on getting my rig to run? Castle sw4 and Flysky gt5

[WildsideVT]

Any chance anyone can help me troubleshoot?

Problem: pretty new build, using SW4 w/ Flysky GT5. Has been running great, without difficulty. On today’s run, I took a couple of falls, but none worse than usual. At one point, I lost throttle response. Turned off the controller, then back on, and was good to go.

Further up the run, I lost throttle again. Now, when I turn on the ESC, it fails to fully arm (or so it seems to me — it makes partial chimes, but doesn’t center the wheels). At that point, the steering works, and continues to work. It will let me throttle forward or backward but only for 6-8 inches, then it cuts power and is unresponsive. Blinking yellow light on ESC with audible short, then long beep.

I have tried: adjusting all trims on tx; turning throttle trim down w/ ESC restart then back to normal w/ ESC restart; reset all connections on the ESC, and also on the receiver; checked and re-soldered the battery connector on the ESC; swapped batteries; reset my castle link settings to default and sent to vehicle via b-link; googled and YouTubed everything.

I’m working on resetting my tx now, but still figuring out how to do that.

Video here showing the actual issue: https://youtu.be/wnBE8iH-AQw

Thanks in advance. It would have been an amazing day today! Did I mention I lost a body clip in the process... groin kick while down.


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[Sniper4370]

Do you have another receiver you can try. Seems like an issue with the receiver not the ESC to me. Acts like my Mamba did when I got the receiver wet.

 

[WildsideVT]

Do you have another receiver you can try. Seems like an issue with the receiver not the ESC to me. Acts like my Mamba did when I got the receiver wet.

Sadly, I don’t. My only other option is a stock Spektrum ESC/Receiver combo from another rig. I might just buy a new receiver and see if that is the issue.


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[Sniper4370]

Sadly, I don’t. My only other option is a stock Spektrum ESC/Receiver combo from another rig. I might just buy a new receiver and see if that is the issue.


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I would try the Spektrum stuff and see how it reacts first. I think I may have an extra FS receiver laying around if you need one.

 

[mikemcE]

Start by recalibrating the TX to your SW4.
Make sure expo is off and throttle and steering EP and sub trim are correct.

This guide tells the led’s actions

https://rogershobbycenter.com/castletroubleshootingguide


Hang up and Drive

 

[WildsideVT]

Start by recalibrating the TX to your SW4.
Make sure expo is off and throttle and steering EP and sub trim are correct.

This guide tells the led’s actions

https://rogershobbycenter.com/castletroubleshootingguide


Hang up and Drive

Thanks for the tips. I’m still pretty new at RC. I’ve gone through my settings (after a reset on the flysky). Error codes suggest ‘partial throttle’ or ‘partial reverse.’ I’m certain I have messed something up and my brain just isn’t getting around what is “on/off” etc., vs positive or negative % values on the tx.

If anyone sees the culprit, here is what everything is at, right now:

Throttle end points: LFU and RBD both 100%
Steering end points: left 65% (my preference w/ clearance), right 65% (same)
Expo: TH RBD and LFU both 0% (have also tried at 100%); ST is 0% (unrelated)
Throttle sub trim: F 00
Steering sub trim: R 00

It still does the startup, but stops short of the usual ‘centering of the wheels.’ Steering is fine. I can only apply throttle for a couple of seconds, before it cuts off and leads to the yellow blinking with short/long beep (red light on the beep). Flashes green or red on forward or reverse attempt.

I know I’m a newb, but trying to provide as much detail in case anyone can help. While Castle can probably be helpful if it’s an ESC issue, I don’t have the same assumption about Flysky if it is transmitter/receiver related. I still hope it’s a problem between the transmitter and my chair...


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[WildsideVT]

It also ran fine for a while today, then this happened mid-run. In case that’s a clue for anyone.


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[Sniper4370]

Try putting the ESC plug in channel 1 on the receiver and servo in #2 and see if the issue reverses (throttle ok and steering out of whack). I'm still leaning towards receiver issue. The tumble could have messed something up internally.

 

[WildsideVT]

Try putting the ESC plug in channel 1 on the receiver and servo in #2 and see if the issue reverses (throttle ok and steering out of whack). I'm still leaning towards receiver issue. The tumble could have messed something up internally.

That was a good idea. Unfortunately, when I swapped the channels, the steering was still fine and the throttle still cut out. The good news is that it is not the receiver, so I can cancel that order. That leaves either some issue with the ESC or something in my transmitter settings.


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[mikemcE]

Did you recalibrate it or not?
That is the most common issue.


Hang up and Drive

 

[WildsideVT]

Did you recalibrate it or not?
That is the most common issue.


Hang up and Drive

Thanks. I did recalibrate the ESC via holding full throttle, full reverse, then neutral. I think that’s what you’re asking. On the Flysky, I assume 100% for each TH endpoint is max. Is there another setting that might be limiting that?


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[WildsideVT]

Thanks. I did recalibrate the ESC via holding full throttle, full reverse, then neutral. I think that’s what you’re asking. On the Flysky, I assume 100% for each TH endpoint is max. Is there another setting that might be limiting that?


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Calibrated the ESC again, just to be sure. Still no change. Going to reach out to Castle tomorrow, I think. Appreciate the tips, everyone.


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[Sniper4370]

Thanks. I did recalibrate the ESC via holding full throttle, full reverse, then neutral. I think that’s what you’re asking. On the Flysky, I assume 100% for each TH endpoint is max. Is there another setting that might be limiting that?


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Don't most radios go, neutral > full throttle > neutral > reverse > neutral? Been a while since I done one. Will be doing my 4PM soon.

 

[WildsideVT]

Don't most radios go, neutral > full throttle > neutral > reverse > neutral? Been a while since I done one. Will be doing my 4PM soon.

Could be. Castle documents show full / reverse / neutral though.

Somehow, the arming that doesn’t center the wheels has to mean something. Even though the steering works fine, it’s odd. Hopefully I get this sorted out, and when I do, I’ll post solution.


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[Sniper4370]

Could be. Castle documents show full / reverse / neutral though.

Somehow, the arming that doesn’t center the wheels has to mean something. Even though the steering works fine, it’s odd. Hopefully I get this sorted out, and when I do, I’ll post solution.


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Please do.

 

[nightcrawler48]

That was a good idea. Unfortunately, when I swapped the channels, the steering was still fine and the throttle still cut out. The good news is that it is not the receiver, so I can cancel that order. That leaves either some issue with the ESC or something in my transmitter settings.


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When you swapped the throttle (ESC) to port 1 and the steering to port 2, did the steering still not center on start-up?

I'm leaning towards a servo issue. Try unplugging the servo and start with just the throttle (ESC) connected to the receiver, port 2. Test the throttle with the RC raised off the ground. If the throttle works properly this way, it is probably a servo issue. Unless a servo completely fails, electronic issues with a servo cause all kinds of issues that are hard to diagnose as the servo being the culprit.

Edit: The info in the SW4 manual indicates one short and one long beep is an over current condition. "The ESC detected operating currents that exceed the capabilities of the ESC". Can't find anything specific about the blinking yellow light except, with the beeping ESC, it is a visual indicator of an issue somewhere. I assume this is some fault indicator as green LED when everything is as its supposed to be. The built in BEC is rated at 2A and 5V. This could be related to my thoughts on the servo being defective. If the servo draws more than the 2A available from the ESC, the ESC should shutdown until the over current draw is corrected. This may be why you can turn it off and then it will power on for a few seconds until it reaches the over current state again. An electronic problem in the servo could draw way over the 2A BEC output.

With the servo not centering, does the servo move to a specific position, even though not centered? Or, does it just stay where you put it? Manually turn the wheels full right, then turn the power on and see if it moves and where it moves to. Then power off, turn the wheels manually to full left and turn the power on again. Do the wheels move to the same position as when powered on with the wheels full right? Also, when powered on, is the steering "Locked" in position or can you manually move the wheels right and left?

Or, another possibility could be an issue with the motor. Doing the test without the servo connected should indicate one way or the other if the motor has an issue.

Good luck.

And as Sniper4370 says, let us know how you make out. Thanks

 

[WildsideVT]

When you swapped the throttle (ESC) to port 1 and the steering to port 2, did the steering still not center on start-up?

I'm leaning towards a servo issue. Try unplugging the servo and start with just the throttle (ESC) connected to the receiver, port 2. Test the throttle with the RC raised off the ground. If the throttle works properly this way, it is probably a servo issue. Unless a servo completely fails, electronic issues with a servo cause all kinds of issues that are hard to diagnose as the servo being the culprit.

Edit: The info in the SW4 manual indicates one short and one long beep is an over current condition. "The ESC detected operating currents that exceed the capabilities of the ESC". Can't find anything specific about the blinking yellow light except, with the beeping ESC, it is a visual indicator of an issue somewhere. I assume this is some fault indicator as green LED when everything is as its supposed to be. The built in BEC is rated at 2A and 5V. This could be related to my thoughts on the servo being defective. If the servo draws more than the 2A available from the ESC, the ESC should shutdown until the over current draw is corrected. This may be why you can turn it off and then it will power on for a few seconds until it reaches the over current state again. An electronic problem in the servo could draw way over the 2A BEC output.

With the servo not centering, does the servo move to a specific position, even though not centered? Or, does it just stay where you put it? Manually turn the wheels full right, then turn the power on and see if it moves and where it moves to. Then power off, turn the wheels manually to full left and turn the power on again. Do the wheels move to the same position as when powered on with the wheels full right? Also, when powered on, is the steering "Locked" in position or can you manually move the wheels right and left?

Or, another possibility could be an issue with the motor. Doing the test without the servo connected should indicate one way or the other if the motor has an issue.

Good luck.

And as Sniper4370 says, let us know how you make out. Thanks

Thanks for the ideas. Here’s where I stand, this morning:

1. I removed the servo plug and started up w/ just ESC/motor connected. Same startup sequence and result (throttle for couple seconds, then cuts out, blinking yellow w/ occasional beeps, blink red or blink green when trying to throttle back or forward). — so at this point, doesn’t seem like a servo issue
2. Swapped ESC/motor plug to channel 2 w/ exact same response — so doesn’t feel like a receiver issue
3. With servo and ESC/motor plugged into correct channels, I turned the wheels all the way right, then on startup, they actually did center. Same in other direction. — so maybe servo is fine.
4. At the time of the original failure, everything was cool to the touch (after 30 min of driving), and subsequent tests are all cold starts. — so it’s definitely not overheating.

Thoughts at the moment:

- Although I’ve run 3-4 packs through this setup without issue, I wonder if I should add a BEC (was thinking this would help get a little more power to the servo, anyway)
- If I can get some help from Castle, great, but I might also trying Holmes (running Puller Pro 2700 v2 — yes, sensorless ESC as mamba x has been sold out). Unfortunately, I don’t have another brushless motor to test, or another brushless ESC to swap and test.

Guys, I really appreciate the ideas and help. This forum is fantastic.


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[23drumerboy]

Thanks for the ideas. Here’s where I stand, this morning:

1. I removed the servo plug and started up w/ just ESC/motor connected. Same startup sequence and result (throttle for couple seconds, then cuts out, blinking yellow w/ occasional beeps, blink red or blink green when trying to throttle back or forward). — so at this point, doesn’t seem like a servo issue
2. Swapped ESC/motor plug to channel 2 w/ exact same response — so doesn’t feel like a receiver issue
3. With servo and ESC/motor plugged into correct channels, I turned the wheels all the way right, then on startup, they actually did center. Same in other direction. — so maybe servo is fine.
4. At the time of the original failure, everything was cool to the touch (after 30 min of driving), and subsequent tests are all cold starts. — so it’s definitely not overheating.

Thoughts at the moment:

- Although I’ve run 3-4 packs through this setup without issue, I wonder if I should add a BEC (was thinking this would help get a little more power to the servo, anyway)
- If I can get some help from Castle, great, but I might also trying Holmes (running Puller Pro 2700 v2 — yes, sensorless ESC as mamba x has been sold out). Unfortunately, I don’t have another brushless motor to test, or another brushless ESC to swap and test.

Guys, I really appreciate the ideas and help. This forum is fantastic.


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Ive had a Traxxas ESC randomly, with absolutely NO input, no power plugged in, etc....just boot up in NimH mode, and raised all sorts of hell! Also, hate to ask, but if you have the means, or a capable charger, check battery IR's, cell voltages, make sure they're even across the board, and the pack, is, indeed charged. Lol.
Would make sense especially IF it is an over-voltage/amperage issue??

Also, your antenna isnt damaged or anything odd? ie: cable/wires rubbed through on moving parts? (Causes short to ground). Ive had LED strips short red-to-black, and the whole truck glitches out.

Read-Up! Mod-On! Crawl EXCESSIVELY!

 

[23drumerboy]

Ive had a Traxxas ESC randomly, with absolutely NO input, no power plugged in, etc....just boot up in NimH mode, and raised all sorts of hell! Also, hate to ask, but if you have the means, or a capable charger, check battery IR's, cell voltages, make sure they're even across the board, and the pack, is, indeed charged. Lol.
Would make sense especially IF it is an over-voltage/amperage issue??

Also, your antenna isnt damaged or anything odd? ie: cable/wires rubbed through on moving parts? (Causes short to ground). Ive had LED strips short red-to-black, and the whole truck glitches out.

Read-Up! Mod-On! Crawl EXCESSIVELY!

Everything I just said, and: on my hobby wing Max 8 I've experienced somewhat similar issues with having manually selected the incorrect A)lipo voltage cutoff ("high" setting), AND/OR MANUALLY (even on "auto", too, with ^above condition) selecting the wrong cell count (2s, 3s, 4s, etc)

Read-Up! Mod-On! Crawl EXCESSIVELY!

 

[WildsideVT]

Everything I just said, and: on my hobby wing Max 8 I've experienced somewhat similar issues with having manually selected the incorrect A)lipo voltage cutoff ("high" setting), AND/OR MANUALLY (even on "auto", too, with ^above condition) selecting the wrong cell count (2s, 3s, 4s, etc)

Read-Up! Mod-On! Crawl EXCESSIVELY!

It’s weird, for sure. No rubbing wires. Settings on transmitter are all fine w/ lipo cells. Strangely, I don’t get the “matching number of beeps per cell” from the sidewinder, but it’s not clear if that is from other startup/arming issues.

To be safe, I’m getting a new connector to re-solder to the ESC, and am going to add a BEC. If that fails, then I’m going to try a different motor. Would be a shame to have a brand new expensive motor be the issue though.

And, it ran great for two days before this. Ugh.


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