• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Another Capra gets assembled

odomandr

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Messages
479
Location
US
Build Sheet: Axial Capra Kit
Castle Mamba X ESC
Holmes Puller Pro Stubby 2200kv
Castle BEC
Futaba A700 Servo (steering)
SuperShafty Servo Mount
Holmes BEC bypass
Spektrum (dig)
Futaba 2106gf receiver to 4pl radio
VP KMC Bully 1.9
CI 4.75 dual stage foams
Pro-Line Hyrax Predator compound

Spent enough time watching everyone else with their Enduro, 1.9 Wraith, etc... Decided to get myself a bit of fun. Picked up the kit last night. Built it immediately when I got home save for the shocks. Tossed some trx4 shocks that were laying around on it instead. Waiting on foams for the wheels and tires and for a determination to be made on the electronics. I have a tekin fxr but I sure do have fun with my brushless wraith....anyway I went back to find the manual mistakes. Got the spacer and arm figured for the dig and the cheap spektrum in place for now (going to need to swap in something else I think). I assembled the trans with the shaft inserted correctly, and the driveshafts in phase and correct length too. Going to get some inside skins from Krawler Konceptz to match the other rigs when they get the panels to build off of so paint is on hold. Planning to assemble the shocks tonight but overall im very happy with the kit. The manual should be actual size and minor issues clarified or fixed then it will be solid. The metal parts (gears and links)all felt nice and the plastic as well (the cage and the rod ends).
91b8633bc637f1c32c42449ea00a83c5.jpg
8d876a89aa91024b8a377e237b2339d4.jpg
b6514851769adf04ca9de79b32b1d1b9.jpg

f600cc593b576bf83a3d3a7285125136.jpg
 
Last edited:
LUVr wheel color combo...sort of "mystifying".

~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
 
Add me to the list of folks that really dig those wheels. Are they the Vanquish KMC XD 127?
 
Do the Vanquish wheels clear the Portal hubs?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Still waiting on foams to know for certain. Should be here by friday and will confirm fitment

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Add me to the list of folks that really dig those wheels. Are they the Vanquish KMC XD 127?
Yes they are.
Im waiting on CI 4.75 soft and med foams to mount them properly.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Do the Vanquish wheels clear the Portal hubs?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
With a 225 hub these do clear. Just barely. Plenty of room if you run them with any other hub or with the xd hubcap from vp

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
With a 225 hub these do clear. Just barely. Plenty of room if you run them with any other hub or with the xd hubcap from vp

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk



Ok thanks for checking. To be safe I think I’ll just go with the 350.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
So I went with the mamba x and a Holmes PP stubby 2200. I added BEC and BEC bypass for proper dual servo voltage regulation . A Futaba A700 for steering will serve where a Hitec normally resides. We shall see how it goes. Whole lot of servo for the same amount of cash. SuperShafty MIP drive shafts and a servo mount will round out the initial assembly of this rig. I am still waiting on the motor and the servo mount to come in along with a smaller pinion. I went ahead and painted the panels and will get another set when Krawler Konceptz gets their template setup
 
Last edited:
So I went with the mamba x and a Holmes PP stubby 2200. I added BEC and BEC bypass for proper dual servo voltage regulation . A Futaba A700 for steering will serve where a Hitec normally resides. We shall see how it goes. Whole lot of servo for the same amount of cash. SuperShafty MIP drive shafts and a servo mount will round out the initial assembly of this rig. I am still waiting on the motor and the servo mount to come in along with a smaller pinion. I went ahead and painted the panels and will get another set when Krawler Konceptz gets their template setup

Curious to know how the BEC & HH BEC Receiver Bypass works...as well as what micro servo you're using for the DIG. I'm also using the Mamba X, but a CC Slate motor. I've tried two different micro servos for the DIG (but not the Spektrum SX107), and I can't even get the DIG operational.

I 99.9% certain it's not my Ch4 settings, because, when I plugged a standard servo into Ch4, it worked perfectly, so Ch4 settings must be correct. Also, both micro servos (one Hitec (same as steering servo), the other Traxxas) I've tried are capable of handling 7.4V, so it shouldn't be a BEC voltage problem.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
 
I have a Mamba X, BEC, bypass and the 107 servo for the dig on my Capra, with no issues. I started with a 3500kv Pro Puller but will swap to a 2200kv stubby tonight before I go crawling tomorrow. I think it's a great combo and will be satisfied.
 
Well I got it all rolling last night. Had planned on a 2position dig but setting up freewheel with 3position wasn't as much of a headache as I anticipated. The flexing of the micro mount will not occur unless setup wrong. It needed some adjustment of the length of throw as expected but tuning the shift arm in the dig must have left me getting lucky and getting it on the second attempt. OMG is that a tight space to work when it is all in there. Tonight will be spent cleaning up the wiring. May tuck it all into the back fuel cell. Looks so clean when routed inside on the firewall too though. Bravo to all who have clean wiring
 
I agree its tight! I kept the receiver in the rear to help keep some of the wiring out of the interior but it's still a mess!
 
Well I got it all rolling last night. Had planned on a 2position dig but setting up freewheel with 3position wasn't as much of a headache as I anticipated. The flexing of the micro mount will not occur unless setup wrong. It needed some adjustment of the length of throw as expected but tuning the shift arm in the dig must have left me getting lucky and getting it on the second attempt. OMG is that a tight space to work when it is all in there. Tonight will be spent cleaning up the wiring. May tuck it all into the back fuel cell. Looks so clean when routed inside on the firewall too though. Bravo to all who have clean wiring




I'm trying to figure out the 3 position myself on a Futaba 4PM.
 
I'm trying to figure out the 3 position myself on a Futaba 4PM.
I'm using the 7PX, but I'm guessing the setup should be the same. Instead of using one of the PS switches) buttons, use one of the DT switches/dials, and do NOT connect the horn to the servo before starting. Start by plugging the micro servo into whichever unused channel you'll be using. Next, on the DT settings page, assign whatever DT switch/dial you want to use to that channel (in my case, it's DT4, and I assigned it to Ch4). For the throw, assign the steps to '100', thus a left-right-right-left sequence would produce -100, 0, +100, 0 (or 4WD, FWD w/ freewheeling, FWD w/locked rear, FWD w/ freewheeling). Finally, before installing the servo, set your endpoints as low as possible (I set mine too '20').

Then, install the servo, make certain it's still centered, and attach the horn. After that, user the sub-trim to find the "sweet spot" for the '0' (FWD w/ freewheeling) position. Once that's done, you can now start adjusting the endpoints for the other two positions. While my 7OX's default sub-trim adjustment was in steps of '2', I changed it to '1' for finer control (I did that a long time ago, as you want extremely fine control for offering racing vehicles). As everyone else (means, those who are far more experienced with crawlers than I am) can tell you, once your endpoints are properly set, you're good to go. Just remember, obviously, that this means the 'default', when you turn the vehicle on, will be "FWD w/ freewheeling", and you'll need to remember to switch it into 4WD.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
 
I'm using the 7PX, but I'm guessing the setup should be the same. Instead of using one of the PS switches) buttons, use one of the DT switches/dials, and do NOT connect the horn to the servo before starting. Start by plugging the micro servo into whichever unused channel you'll be using. Next, on the DT settings page, assign whatever DT switch/dial you want to use to that channel (in my case, it's DT4, and I assigned it to Ch4). For the throw, assign the steps to '100', thus a left-right-right-left sequence would produce -100, 0, +100, 0 (or 4WD, FWD w/ freewheeling, FWD w/locked rear, FWD w/ freewheeling). Finally, before installing the servo, set your endpoints as low as possible (I set mine too '20').

Then, install the servo, make certain it's still centered, and attach the horn. After that, user the sub-trim to find the "sweet spot" for the '0' (FWD w/ freewheeling) position. Once that's done, you can now start adjusting the endpoints for the other two positions. While my 7OX's default sub-trim adjustment was in steps of '2', I changed it to '1' for finer control (I did that a long time ago, as you want extremely fine control for offering racing vehicles). As everyone else (means, those who are far more experienced with crawlers than I am) can tell you, once your endpoints are properly set, you're good to go. Just remember, obviously, that this means the 'default', when you turn the vehicle on, will be "FWD w/ freewheeling", and you'll need to remember to switch it into 4WD.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place


Thanks for that. I'll give it a try this weekend.
 
https://youtu.be/MviC0ClKcaw Check this video he goes over how to do it with a 4pv I believe it is. Futaba uses similar language though the menus may be in different places.

Basically set it up so that ch3 or ch4 is set 100 or 2p depending on whether you want a 3 position setup or 2 position setup. Then set the horn center and set the EPA until you get the desired throw from the dig servo. For free wheeling you may need to adjust the threaded shift rod so that it gets max throw to lock out with the horn nor binding a pulling the servo. It should still be set with the trans running. Mine likes to be shifted while running not at a stand still, or is at least more consistent as the lockout needs to fall into place.
 
Thanks! I’ll give it a watch on my lunch break!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Dressed up the fuel cell a bit
fdd26391e2a0f7bad3a6aef2818433de.jpg


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top