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sandyx

Newbie
Joined
Jun 16, 2015
Messages
30
Location
IN
A new RS10 XT Build: BTA, 2W FPV

My new 1/10 crawler arrived the other day. Some mods & upgrades will happen in due time. Right now reading through threads on RCC. A few pics in stock condition for now. Thanks!

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For the lipo upgrade.
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welcome to the machine or madness or whatever it is that attracts us masochists to this crawler

there is a lot of information an ideas all over this section. just about everything has been tried
and some of the guys have been good enough to not only post lots of pictures but even
give us the part numbers of what they found and tried.

don't be shy in asking questions or pms

oh, and enjoy ......
 
Ahh memories of when I first got mine. It's now sitting on a custom chassis, links and cut tires / foams.

My rear servo was the first to go oddly Enough.

Enjoy it's a great truck to get into the hobby
 
@Cabron Thank you! I'm still reading through this section, slow & steady.

An inexpensive metal gear servo & steel gear sets for both axles along with drive pins are on the way now. Will change as & when the stock ones break. So far it's working ok with limited usage.
 
remove the foams from the tires.
this will give you a bit better ride until you decide if and when to get better tires.
some guys did some clever cutting of treads. besides looking better they also got better grip.

think about wheels wideners, about 1/2" on each side, it will give you a wider wheelbase
and fewer rollovers. or wheels with more offset will do the same thing. will help to keep
the tires from rubbing on the links and motor wires.

a servo's output power will depend on the voltage you are supplying it. look at the specs.
I don't have the specs on me for the receiver in the rs-10, but a BEC can be used to provide
more voltage to either the receiver or just the servo. there are a lot of entries on becs and
how to wire them up but it is a bit confusing at first. don't be afraid to ask. there are
several ways to do this. (just food for thought it is not something that just has to be done asap)

most important thing is to enjoy the hobby and learn a few things as well as meet epeople.
 
Sure thing cabron, i'll be getting the Junfac wideners at a later stage. Same with the BEC if needed since the metal servo i just got is deflecting well on stock power.

Started with the mod since most of the spares have arrived. The following will go in for now.

Steel gears for both axles with hardened drive pins (One axle completed, moly lubed)
Metal gear servo for front axle (Towerpro 18kg)
Metal servo horn
Metal steering knuckles
BTA steering
Cut frame & drill new link holes for lowering
Matte black frame & beadlocks
Bend links
Lipo
Tx antenna mod

Hoping it comes out alright.

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I have been using the 12.5 kg towerpro servos and been happy with them but these new ones interest me
I will want to know how well the work for you and how well they stand up
 
cabron, this is the servo.

Towerpro MG958 55g 20KG High Torque Digital Metal Gear Servo Sale-Banggood.com

I'm not sure if it's an original towerpro. That's why i only bought one just to check it. It works in testing, yet to see how it behaves under load. The small PCB is just wrapped in thick tape than soldered to the motor.

Some parts drying now. The finish isn't great since i had to use a brush for clear coat but just wanted the fancy colors to go.

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The truck taking shape, slow & steady. Rear differential shaft is yet to be dismantled due to hopelessly stuck set pins on both outdrive cups, else could've completed by now. The frame is cut & drilled which lowered the entire unit. Links are bent at 15 degrees, nothing fouls with motors so far at normal & extremes. Put it all together to check alignment, seems alright.

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are you talking about the hex hubs being stuck on the stubby shafts?
or rather not being able to slide the stubby shafts off the knuckles?

the metal is pretty soft and sometimes the set screws on the hexes are too tight and
they put a dimple on the shaft. will need to file down the dimple to be able to slide it off
through the knuckles.

if you need to grind off the hexes, I can send you some. I have replaced mine with some that
do not have the set screw.

good luck
 
I was talking about these tiny hex head pins on main differential final drive shaft.

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I've sent it over to someone who has access to precision tools. All my hex keys got blunted by those two lil buggers. I tried heating & what not.
 
ok
when the allen wrench get rounded at the tip you can usually grind the very end down.
I try to cool it down fast to try to temper the tip. this can extend the life of the allen wrench

watching your progress. looking good
 
I ground down the keys many times, but all it needs is one solid twist to lose it. My hex keys are hardened too, still...

Thanks man! This is a first for me, so quite slow.
 
First of all, I can tell you are going to enjoy your new hobby. This is you all day.
I used to have a girlfriend that was real artsy fartsy and I would always tease her about it.

Now a days, every time I touch my crawler my roommate says "Gonna do some arts and crafts?" And I say, "Zactly !" I probably spend about 3 times as much time tinkering as I do driving....and I love it that way. Most of my "improvements" aren't even improvements. It's just something that I hadn't tinkered with yet.

Dig all the black BTW, that should definitely help your side hilling. Teehe.

My first servo went out the first day. I locked out the rear and moved the rear one forward. It lasted about a week. Got a couple $10 metal gear servos and managed to keep them going for over a year. And that was just because the plastic tabs to hold them down broke.
I'm not sure which servo you got, but if it is metal gears and a plastic case.... strap a zip tie around it so that the case never "decases" itself. It will last much longer that way.

On that set screw. First, it is smaller than it looks. For what ever reason (at least for me)set screws seem to respond to a nicer wrench more so than any other part on the rig. It might not be too late to go get a nice $15 - 1.5mm (or is it 2mm?) wrench. I'm not sure why it works, but it has bailed me out in the past.

For the tires,. You see how there are squiggles and arrows in the tread pattern? I removed the foams and cut out all the squiggles on the fronts. It was a night and day difference. Just don't let it be stored sitting on the tires if you remove the foams. They will develop flat spots.
 
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BTW can you post a pic of the front wheels at full turn. It has been so long since I've been stock, I can't remember how much steering I started with.
 
Sometimes the pin will spin a little inside the plastic gear and put pressure on the set screws. If mine won't
Come loose I put it in a vice and just put a little pressure on the end of the whole assembly and they will
usually come right out. Good luck
 
Yes you are spot on Overkel, this truck is taking a huge toll on my sleep. The stock servos are still in good health, mostly due to the much less hardcore usage it was put through. This 10$ servo seems slightly jittery, so can't really say about it just yet until put on load.

I'm sure an MIP wrench will yank out that set screw, but i don't have one till i import it.

I'll be getting rovers soon, but will cut up the stock tires in time. I've seen the pattern mod already, but needs a proper tool to do it neat.

Otis Maybe that's what happened here since both pins are royally stuck. The part is not with me now, hope i get it back in pieces.

About the steering, it's not stock anymore. Right now, BTA steering is being done on it. The SCX10 aluminium knuckles kinda limited the turn slightly due to its design. It's yet to complete so might change later.

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Still looking like a truck i guess.

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with the allen wrench in the screw give it a hard tap with a hammer
often times this will break loose the threads

vanquish products has the berg high clearance knuckles on discontinued sale.
at 21.00 dollars it is not a bad deal and the original bearings fit
 
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