Panther6834
I wanna be Dave
First, and foremost...I'm hoping that others will not only "chime in" regarding the two alternate possibilities in providing, but will also add alternate aftermarket shock options they've discovered 'work'. Second, this is a fairly lengthy read, but could prove very well-worth reading, especially for those wanting to replace the Ryft's stock shocks with something else.
Disclaimer: I hope no responsibility if you damage your vehicle whole running non-stock shocks on the Ryft, or any other vehicles. Additionally, if any modifications are required, such as removing a portion of the chassis, cage, frame, etc, responsibility goes to the person performing said modifications.
Alrighty then (thank you, Jim Carrey)...now, time to switch things up. Like many who has problems with the shocks included in the Capra, there are those who've reported problems with the Ryft's shocks. Springdale, to several people have reported various 'quality control' issues with various aspects of the kit. Granted, I have not yet built my Ryft, but I did build the shocks, and I already ran into one problem (three are buttery-smooth, while one is anything but...I suspect one of the front shafts was already bent).
Like several others, I've been on a quest for alternatives...and, I think I might have come up with two of possibly the best alternative. Neither is "perfect" (at least, in implementation), but both should prove to be better (neither leaks, unlike (from what others have said) the stock shocks) options.
The first comes from RC4WD - the King shocks. For the front, you'd want the 120mm Dual Spring version (Z-D0067). For the rear, to troll want the Yeti XL 150mm version (Z-D0070). To match the stock rear shocks's 146mm length, simply add 4mm of internal limiters. As for the front, technically, they're 10mm shorter than stock, so good have two 'options' - run the front slightly lower than the rear, or add an additional 10mm of internal limiters to the rear shocks.
The second option...and, the PRIMARY reason I chose to create this thread...comes from Traxxas, in the form of their GTR shocks for the UDR. For this, I'll list the parts, as you might need to make some changes, depending on which sub-option you prefer to go with.
Starting with the rear, there area three possible ways to create 146mm shocks. The first is to use #8461, which is a 160mm shock, and add 14mm of internal limiters. The second option would be to take the previously-mentioned 160mm shock, and replace the 77mm shock body with either of the 64mm shock bodies (#8452 (threaded)/#8453 (non-threaded)), which would shorten the 160mm shock to 134mm...exactly the same length as the Ryft's stock rear shocks. And, finally, the third would be to take either #8450 (threaded), or #8451 (non-threaded), and replace the 69mm shaft with the 81mm shaft (#8464) normally found in the 160mm shock. This, in turn, would lengthen the 8450/8451 shock, from 134mm to 146mm...again, the same length as the Ryft's stock rear shocks.
Technically, options 2 & 3, as described above, produce exactly the same results. The only reason I presented both "build x configurations is because some LHSs might have the shorter shocks & longer shafts in-stock, while other LHSs might have the longer shocks & shorter shock bodies in-stock. If your LHS has all the parts, go with whichever costs less...again, the end-result of either is EXACTLY the same.
However, there IS a difference between the first option, and the other two options - while the extended lengths are the same, the compressed lengths are different, and there's one considerable advantage & disadvantage to each. By going with the 160mm shock, and adding the internal limiters, you lose (disadvantage) 2mm of articulation over the 2nd & 3rd options. At the same time, due to the larger volume, the oil in the shocks will remain cooler (advantage) than the shocks from the 2nd & 3rd options. As for the 2nd & 3rd options, the same advantage/disadvantage applies, but are swapped...you have 2mm extra articulation, but higher temp shock oil due to lower volume.
With whichever of these three options you consider trying, know that they should all fit equally well as the stock shocks, and no modifications to the Ryft should be needed. I purposely didn't bring up springs, as that will be a personal preference to each individual. However, one point I will mention is this - sure to the shortening of the shocks, it's probably advisable to lower the intended spring rate by 1-2 choices.
Now, we move to the front shocks. This should be extremely easy...but, there IS the possibility that a cage modification could be needed (I'm waiting for actual testing/report from JDM74, who will be treating 'fitment', as he happens to have a pair of the shocks, and is currently building his Ryft). First, the shocks in question - as with one of the rear options, here, you'd also use either #8450 (threaded) or #8451 (non-threaded), adding 4mm of internal limiters, shortening them to the same 130mm as the stock shocks...and, that's it.
Well...possibly not quite. This is where I see a possible (but, hopefully, minor) "problem". This is where JDM74's testing will come into play. I'm suspecting that the larger diameter of the GTR shocks could push against part of the cage. If it's determined that the shock doesn't press/rub against the cage, than all is good, no mods are needed, you can simply follow the directions presented above, and you'll have far superior shocks on your Ryft...but, if the GTRs do press/rub against the cage, then a slight modification to the cage will probably be needed. As to 'what', specifically, that mod will need to be, I don't exactly know...but, I see two possibilities.
If the shock only slightly presses/rubs against the cage, then you should be able to just remove some material, and all should be good. However, of the shock is pressing quite a bit against the cage, then that short section will need to be removed from the cage. Looking over the design of the cage, removing that short section on each side shouldn't degrade the structural stability of the cage. Just remove enough to allow complete clearance of the shock, while keeping all bolts holding the cage together in-place, all you shouldn't have any problems.
As I said, JDM74 will be testing the 134mm GTRs once he builds his Ryft Kit, and should be able to report back fairly soon. I will be checking with my 2 of my 3 LHSs in approx 2hrs, to see if they have the 134mm shocks, as well as a 'display' Ryft...and, if any has both, or if any one has the shocks & another has a 'display' Ryft, I should be able to post the 'answer' within a few hours. I'm 99.9% certain the GTR idea for the rear shocks will work without any problems, so no worries there. Even though there's a possibility of needing to miss the cage in order to get the front GTRs to fit, in still at least 80% certain the front GTR idea should work.
Good luck to all who try..........
~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
Disclaimer: I hope no responsibility if you damage your vehicle whole running non-stock shocks on the Ryft, or any other vehicles. Additionally, if any modifications are required, such as removing a portion of the chassis, cage, frame, etc, responsibility goes to the person performing said modifications.
Alrighty then (thank you, Jim Carrey)...now, time to switch things up. Like many who has problems with the shocks included in the Capra, there are those who've reported problems with the Ryft's shocks. Springdale, to several people have reported various 'quality control' issues with various aspects of the kit. Granted, I have not yet built my Ryft, but I did build the shocks, and I already ran into one problem (three are buttery-smooth, while one is anything but...I suspect one of the front shafts was already bent).
Like several others, I've been on a quest for alternatives...and, I think I might have come up with two of possibly the best alternative. Neither is "perfect" (at least, in implementation), but both should prove to be better (neither leaks, unlike (from what others have said) the stock shocks) options.
The first comes from RC4WD - the King shocks. For the front, you'd want the 120mm Dual Spring version (Z-D0067). For the rear, to troll want the Yeti XL 150mm version (Z-D0070). To match the stock rear shocks's 146mm length, simply add 4mm of internal limiters. As for the front, technically, they're 10mm shorter than stock, so good have two 'options' - run the front slightly lower than the rear, or add an additional 10mm of internal limiters to the rear shocks.
The second option...and, the PRIMARY reason I chose to create this thread...comes from Traxxas, in the form of their GTR shocks for the UDR. For this, I'll list the parts, as you might need to make some changes, depending on which sub-option you prefer to go with.
Starting with the rear, there area three possible ways to create 146mm shocks. The first is to use #8461, which is a 160mm shock, and add 14mm of internal limiters. The second option would be to take the previously-mentioned 160mm shock, and replace the 77mm shock body with either of the 64mm shock bodies (#8452 (threaded)/#8453 (non-threaded)), which would shorten the 160mm shock to 134mm...exactly the same length as the Ryft's stock rear shocks. And, finally, the third would be to take either #8450 (threaded), or #8451 (non-threaded), and replace the 69mm shaft with the 81mm shaft (#8464) normally found in the 160mm shock. This, in turn, would lengthen the 8450/8451 shock, from 134mm to 146mm...again, the same length as the Ryft's stock rear shocks.
Technically, options 2 & 3, as described above, produce exactly the same results. The only reason I presented both "build x configurations is because some LHSs might have the shorter shocks & longer shafts in-stock, while other LHSs might have the longer shocks & shorter shock bodies in-stock. If your LHS has all the parts, go with whichever costs less...again, the end-result of either is EXACTLY the same.
However, there IS a difference between the first option, and the other two options - while the extended lengths are the same, the compressed lengths are different, and there's one considerable advantage & disadvantage to each. By going with the 160mm shock, and adding the internal limiters, you lose (disadvantage) 2mm of articulation over the 2nd & 3rd options. At the same time, due to the larger volume, the oil in the shocks will remain cooler (advantage) than the shocks from the 2nd & 3rd options. As for the 2nd & 3rd options, the same advantage/disadvantage applies, but are swapped...you have 2mm extra articulation, but higher temp shock oil due to lower volume.
With whichever of these three options you consider trying, know that they should all fit equally well as the stock shocks, and no modifications to the Ryft should be needed. I purposely didn't bring up springs, as that will be a personal preference to each individual. However, one point I will mention is this - sure to the shortening of the shocks, it's probably advisable to lower the intended spring rate by 1-2 choices.
Now, we move to the front shocks. This should be extremely easy...but, there IS the possibility that a cage modification could be needed (I'm waiting for actual testing/report from JDM74, who will be treating 'fitment', as he happens to have a pair of the shocks, and is currently building his Ryft). First, the shocks in question - as with one of the rear options, here, you'd also use either #8450 (threaded) or #8451 (non-threaded), adding 4mm of internal limiters, shortening them to the same 130mm as the stock shocks...and, that's it.
Well...possibly not quite. This is where I see a possible (but, hopefully, minor) "problem". This is where JDM74's testing will come into play. I'm suspecting that the larger diameter of the GTR shocks could push against part of the cage. If it's determined that the shock doesn't press/rub against the cage, than all is good, no mods are needed, you can simply follow the directions presented above, and you'll have far superior shocks on your Ryft...but, if the GTRs do press/rub against the cage, then a slight modification to the cage will probably be needed. As to 'what', specifically, that mod will need to be, I don't exactly know...but, I see two possibilities.
If the shock only slightly presses/rubs against the cage, then you should be able to just remove some material, and all should be good. However, of the shock is pressing quite a bit against the cage, then that short section will need to be removed from the cage. Looking over the design of the cage, removing that short section on each side shouldn't degrade the structural stability of the cage. Just remove enough to allow complete clearance of the shock, while keeping all bolts holding the cage together in-place, all you shouldn't have any problems.
As I said, JDM74 will be testing the 134mm GTRs once he builds his Ryft Kit, and should be able to report back fairly soon. I will be checking with my 2 of my 3 LHSs in approx 2hrs, to see if they have the 134mm shocks, as well as a 'display' Ryft...and, if any has both, or if any one has the shocks & another has a 'display' Ryft, I should be able to post the 'answer' within a few hours. I'm 99.9% certain the GTR idea for the rear shocks will work without any problems, so no worries there. Even though there's a possibility of needing to miss the cage in order to get the front GTRs to fit, in still at least 80% certain the front GTR idea should work.
Good luck to all who try..........
~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
