01-18-2008, 11:15 PM | #1 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Hueytown, Alabama
Posts: 6,777
| Dig build thread.
Here is the thread on how it workes. New dig for "Rockcrawler#4" A few people have asked me to do a build thread so here it is. Parts you will need:
Ok, this is what I started with. First thing is to cut the 3/8" galvinized nipple. I have not played with the length but I cut mine to 1 3/4". Next, you will need to run a 1/4" tap into the nipple so that the 1/4x1/8 bushnig will thread into the nipple. You could probably get away without the next step and might even work better. I have only built 3 of these and I did them all the same. But I took the 1/4 x 1/8 bushings and cut them down to .40. Next, you need to go ahead and weld the piece of thin metal onto the nipple so you will have something to connect the linkage to. Now to get the bushing ready for lock. I used a angle grinder but there are other tools that you could easily use to do this. I cut 4 slots in the bushing so that the lock pin, which I will install later, will hold the rear end. Its easier to do this when its tight and on the nipple. This only needs to be done to one of the bushings. Go ahead and install the other bushing in the opposite end of the nipple. So you should have a nipple with a bushing in each end. I dont remember the sixe bit I used, but you need one just big enough to drill the threads out of the inside of the bushing. As long as the male ends will slide through, it should be ok. The bushing on the left has been drilled. This is what the bushings should look like when your done cutting on them. Next, you will need to cut the female shaft. The length of the cut depends on the cuts of the nipple and the bushings. You want some slack for the shaft to move back and forth about 1/8" or so. With the one of the bushings in, insert the female shaft inside the nipple. One bushing in and the female shaft inside. Now, just put the other bushing in. You should have this now. You can use just about any type of metal to use for the pin lock out. I didnt get pics of the pin but you can see it in the pics below. Also, on the male shafts, its better to make all four slots on the shaft the same width so that the drive only has to make 1/4 of a turn to engage instead of 1/2 a turn. Thats it. It looks kinda long, but the last 2 I made only took about an hour or so. Thanks for reading. I know I probably left something out. :?Its late and I am tired so if you see something wrong, please let me know. Last edited by Rockcrawler; 01-22-2008 at 06:23 PM. |
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01-19-2008, 06:10 AM | #2 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: On the G-Train!!!!!
Posts: 6,081
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Nice job.
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01-19-2008, 06:37 AM | #3 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Davison
Posts: 79
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I like it. Seems to be more "rebuildable" than some other designs. If you strip the splines in the female part just unthread the nipple and install a new section of driveshaft. Great write up. Z |
01-19-2008, 07:54 AM | #4 |
Moderator Rule Breaker Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 5,970
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Seems like it super strong and rebuildable. You work in plumbing shop huh ?
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01-19-2008, 08:24 AM | #5 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2007 Location: Taylors Falls just hanging with the MNRCRC crew.
Posts: 7,843
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Thanks for the build thread...nice Work
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01-19-2008, 08:30 AM | #6 | ||
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Hueytown, Alabama
Posts: 6,777
| Thank you. Quote:
Quote:
Thank you Stormin. | ||
01-19-2008, 08:39 AM | #7 |
Moderator Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: In my head
Posts: 2,744
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I have seen this system in action it works very well. Engages and disengages smoothly, good job Jeff!
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01-19-2008, 10:31 AM | #8 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Cotati
Posts: 704
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Thanks for the the details. I think I am gonna have to start on mine today. LOL. Congrats on the soon to be.
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01-19-2008, 10:52 AM | #9 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Englewood, CO
Posts: 292
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Cool dig. How long did you make the tranny side male driveshaft? How do you keep it aligned in the pipe? I would think there would be a little slop because the male driveshaft outer diameter is smaller then the inner diameter of the bushing, but I could be wrong. Does it pop out under articulation?
Last edited by Zardoz; 01-19-2008 at 10:59 AM. |
01-19-2008, 11:08 AM | #10 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Hueytown, Alabama
Posts: 6,777
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Glad you asked because I was so tired last night that I forgot. But I used the same method of using a piece of all thread pressed or threaded into the trans side shaft. Then took the threads off the side that goes into the axels. It has not unlocked on me yet. I ran it at a comp in ATL a few weeks ago and it worked fine. 1 time it didnt want to go full lock when I had the front end up in the air. But I shifted it out and back in, then it locked. It could definately use some tuning but this was the first one I built and it has been n the truck since. |
01-19-2008, 11:32 AM | #11 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Englewood, CO
Posts: 292
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Thanks, I figured you did something like that. |
01-21-2008, 12:50 PM | #12 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Lakewood-Crawlerado
Posts: 219
| length of male shafts?
so how long are the male shafts? are they both the same length?:neutral:
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01-21-2008, 01:20 PM | #13 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Hueytown, Alabama
Posts: 6,777
| That depends on the truck. I put both shafts in and cut them so that they could be end to end. Make sure you run the truck through the suspension cycle before you finish. My shafts actually move in and out about 1/8 " in the cycle. |
01-21-2008, 04:24 PM | #14 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Canada
Posts: 74
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Can we see the other end of it? I meen, the servo and linkage part if the system. I'm curious of how you did it... Thank's in advance, Rene |
01-22-2008, 04:03 PM | #15 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: monroeville
Posts: 20
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do you mean 3/8 nipple instead of 1/4?
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01-22-2008, 05:13 PM | #16 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Garden State
Posts: 18
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wouldn't this design still be trying to force power to the rear wheels since essentially the 2 male axles are locked together on the female piece? Im sure I am missing something here....could someone explain?
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01-22-2008, 06:21 PM | #17 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Hueytown, Alabama
Posts: 6,777
| Quote:
Yes, its 3/8". Like I said, I was tired. I wonder how many are sitting at home trying to get a 1/4 x 1/8 bushing into a 1/4" nipple. Sorry Guys. No, when the female shaft slides back to lock the rear axle, the front male shaft is no longer in the female piece. | |
01-22-2008, 06:46 PM | #18 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Garden State
Posts: 18
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So the all-thread keeps the two shafts aligned and the outer slide actually almost fully slides off the tranny side of the shaft....correct? Does this setup have any problems re-engaging back into 4wd? Because the splines on the female shaft need to line back up with the male groves....right? Sorry for the dumb questions...just want to fully understand this before I do it. |
01-22-2008, 08:21 PM | #19 | |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Canada
Posts: 74
| Quote:
Thank's rockcrawler, I'll wait for that... | |
01-22-2008, 08:30 PM | #20 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Hueytown, Alabama
Posts: 6,777
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